the broughtons: kwatsi bay and viner sound
Date: July 23, 2019
Time Start: 10 a.m.
Time Finish: 1:30 p.m.
Cruise From: Moore Bay, Kingcome Inlet
Cruise To: Kwatsi Bay
Engine Hours Start: 1041
Engine Hours Finish: 1044
Weather/sea conditions: Gray morning clearing to sunny afternoon, low 70's
It's already in the 60's when we get up, skies are gray, water calm, and the tide is on its way out, exposing the fucus covered rocky shores. Kwatsi Bay is our destination today. The stern tie is released, the dinghy raised onto davits, and we are ready to pull the anchor and be on our way. We're a bit sad to leave Moore Bay, a terrific anchorage for us, but more places to explore await us.
Our route takes us down Kingcome Inlet to Penphrase Passage and then into Tribune Channel until we reach Kwatsi Bay. It is like we are swinging around the end of a large peninsula of mainland B.C. that separates two fjords to get from Moore Bay to Kwatsi Bay. Along the way, we have great high rock faces rising from the water. One enormous rock face drops additional 700 feet into the water. Talk about a sheer, we could go within 100 feet of it with no problem.
Time Start: 10 a.m.
Time Finish: 1:30 p.m.
Cruise From: Moore Bay, Kingcome Inlet
Cruise To: Kwatsi Bay
Engine Hours Start: 1041
Engine Hours Finish: 1044
Weather/sea conditions: Gray morning clearing to sunny afternoon, low 70's
It's already in the 60's when we get up, skies are gray, water calm, and the tide is on its way out, exposing the fucus covered rocky shores. Kwatsi Bay is our destination today. The stern tie is released, the dinghy raised onto davits, and we are ready to pull the anchor and be on our way. We're a bit sad to leave Moore Bay, a terrific anchorage for us, but more places to explore await us.
Our route takes us down Kingcome Inlet to Penphrase Passage and then into Tribune Channel until we reach Kwatsi Bay. It is like we are swinging around the end of a large peninsula of mainland B.C. that separates two fjords to get from Moore Bay to Kwatsi Bay. Along the way, we have great high rock faces rising from the water. One enormous rock face drops additional 700 feet into the water. Talk about a sheer, we could go within 100 feet of it with no problem.
The rocks amaze us, so much detail to take in. The layers of barnacles and algae form colorful bands at their base, and we can see places in cracks and crevasses where birds nest. We could spend hours here. And we have more to see as we cruise. We pass the rock faces where Lacy Falls is located. We heard the falls were flowing a couple of days ago from all of the rain, but today they are dry. And we aren't wishing for more rain! Also see video below.
Watson Cove is a perfect lunch stop for us. We are protected in the cove from a strong N.W. wind as we have our sandwiches next to a high rock face with a view out the narrow entrance of the cove to Tribune Channel.
Our rock filled cruise comes to an end when we enter Kwatsi Bay, a magnificent setting with a small and welcoming marina. Anca, one of the owners, is on the dock to greet us, as are Lynn and Duane from the American Tug "Emerald Star II. There is something special about this laid back place where life seems so simple and easy.
The "office" building has a really nice gift shop!
And like all of the marinas in the Broughtons, happy hour is the heart of everything, where everyone comes together to share stories and friendship. We are delighted to see Sean and Debbie here, our new friends from our stay at Sullivan Bay, who have arrived on Wind Song.
A new acquaintance is Nelly from Dinard, France, aboard "Brittany Belle" with her husband Jacques. She is surprised to find out that we have been to Dinard! The two of them have cruised the entire Great Loop and this is their second summer of cruising from Anacortes. Fun people!
Date: July 24, 2019
Kwatsi Bay layover day
Weather: Partly cloudy morning, with clouds building
It's time to say goodbye to Sean and Debbie, we've become good friends. We hope to see them again and to get to hear them play their guitars! Their boat "Wind Song" has the perfect name, and here it is as they leave Kwatsi Bay:
Date: July 24, 2019
Kwatsi Bay layover day
Weather: Partly cloudy morning, with clouds building
It's time to say goodbye to Sean and Debbie, we've become good friends. We hope to see them again and to get to hear them play their guitars! Their boat "Wind Song" has the perfect name, and here it is as they leave Kwatsi Bay:
Dan is in the mood for a REAL breakfast this morning. Chef Dan at work in the galley of NORTH STAR!
A dinghy trip exploring Kwatsi Bay results in a few more photos: (Kwatsi Bay Marina is so tiny at the base of the mountains in the first photos!)
We are just two days away from the gathering of Ranger Tugs and Cutwater boats at Echo Bay. Boaters are showing up, we have a few anchored out in Kwatsi Bay, and they come to the marina dock to check things out. Dan turns out to be one of the big attractions. He is showing them his GoPro camera and telling about how he drops it to check out marine life around our boat.
Once again it is time for happy hour. Max and Anca tell us that six Ranger Tugs were scheduled to arrive today but haven't shown up. Where are they? We all hope they are safe as they phoned in from Blind Channel this morning to say that they were on their way. Max and Anca have been holding dock space for them and turning away other boats today. I make a new friend, Helen, and we share stories about our Scandinavian ancestors and heritage.
We get a little entertainment for happy hour. A few dolphins splash out by the island as raindrops fall, and a heron fishes from the dock.
Date: July 25, 2019
Time Start: Noon
Time Finish: 1:50 p.m.
Cruise From: Kwatsi Bay
Cruise To: Viner Sound
Engine Hours Start: 1044
Engine Hours Finish: 1046
Weather/sea conditions: Gray, showers, calm, clearing to mid 70's
We take time for visiting on the dock as showers drift through Kwatsi this morning. I say goodbye to my new friend Helen on "Nordic Wolf". The happy hour gathering spot is the perfect place to sit and chat as raindrops fall. Jane and Paul, Lynn and Duane, and Anca all gather for lots of fun chatting. The more we share, the more we find we have in common. One of the fun connections is with Lynn and Duane, who were interviewed for American Tugs by none other than Ranger Tugs Sam Bisset along with Chip Hanauer!
Time Start: Noon
Time Finish: 1:50 p.m.
Cruise From: Kwatsi Bay
Cruise To: Viner Sound
Engine Hours Start: 1044
Engine Hours Finish: 1046
Weather/sea conditions: Gray, showers, calm, clearing to mid 70's
We take time for visiting on the dock as showers drift through Kwatsi this morning. I say goodbye to my new friend Helen on "Nordic Wolf". The happy hour gathering spot is the perfect place to sit and chat as raindrops fall. Jane and Paul, Lynn and Duane, and Anca all gather for lots of fun chatting. The more we share, the more we find we have in common. One of the fun connections is with Lynn and Duane, who were interviewed for American Tugs by none other than Ranger Tugs Sam Bisset along with Chip Hanauer!
We say our goodbyes and leave in a misty rainfall. Anca is on the dock, seeing us off and welcoming a new boat. Kwatsi Bay Marina may have new owners the next time we return. It is for sale. Max and Anca started this operation, building their home and raising a family here, 23 years ago. They are ready to retire and are building a new home in Sointula. Even in the rain, Kwatsi Bay is lovely.
We are headed for a night on the hook, retracing our path in Tribune Channel, following along Gilford Island, and bending around King Point into Viner Sound. We are in another stunning inlet, definitely fjord-like, winding back and back, and surrounded by mountains.
We reach a nook where there are two buoys. Our friends Tom and Michelle on "Paraiso" are on one, and we tie up to the other one. This is a paddlers paradise, with shallow nooks to explore at both high and low tides.
Tom and Michelle join us for a potluck dinner in the cockpit. They are taking the big step of moving from their home in the Portland area to become live aboards. What an adventure!
My oarsman takes me for an evening cruise in the dinghy. It is a warm and beautiful summer evening, the high tide allowing for passage between the rocky islets of our little nook in Viner Sound. It is so quiet and peaceful.