ten weeks: Desolation Sound part 1
Officially, Desolation Sound is a fairly small area limited to the designated Desolation Sound Marine Park that includes Prideaux Haven, Tenedos Bay, and Grace Harbor, all part of the B.C. mainland. But, for cruisers like us, Desolation Sound encompasses a much larger region that includes the waters surrounding Cortes, West Redonda, and East Redonda Islands. Our stops in Desolation Sound reach all of these areas. With visits to Squirrel Cove on Cortes; Teakerne Arm, Refuge Cove and Roscoe Bay on West Redonda; Pendrell Sound on East Redonda; and the Prideaux Haven area and Tenedos in the official marine park, we experience a wide variety of cruising destinations. Here we go! We are cruising Desolation Sound for our fourth time! (We are dividing the entries into two parts. Part 1 covers Squirrel Cove, Teakerne Arm, Pendrell Sound, and the Prideaux Haven region. Part 2 covers Refuge Cove, Roscoe Bay, and Tenedos.)
Date: July 12, 2016
Time Start: 10 a.m.
Time Finish: 5 p.m.
Cruise From: Octopus Islands, Quadra Island
Cruise To: Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island
Engine Hours Start: 482
Engine Hours Finish: 488
Weather/sea conditions: Gray with showers in morning, cloudy day, low 70's and pleasant
After a rainy night, the clouds are hanging low over the calm waters of the Octopus Islands this morning. Dan measured the water temperature here and it is a cool 60 degrees. We were here a year ago at this same time and we were swimming in 68 degree water. Not this year!
We leave the Octopus Islands with rain falling, a light shower. We exit through the passage of our eagle, mink and deer encounters yesterday, making our way into Okisollo Channel toward Surge Rapids. From there we turn north into Whiterock Channel between Read and Maurelle Islands. The rapids are no problem for Capt. Dan, he is becoming a pro at predicting currents and handling the helm of NORTH STAR. We easily ride the flood through the narrows.
Time Start: 10 a.m.
Time Finish: 5 p.m.
Cruise From: Octopus Islands, Quadra Island
Cruise To: Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island
Engine Hours Start: 482
Engine Hours Finish: 488
Weather/sea conditions: Gray with showers in morning, cloudy day, low 70's and pleasant
After a rainy night, the clouds are hanging low over the calm waters of the Octopus Islands this morning. Dan measured the water temperature here and it is a cool 60 degrees. We were here a year ago at this same time and we were swimming in 68 degree water. Not this year!
We leave the Octopus Islands with rain falling, a light shower. We exit through the passage of our eagle, mink and deer encounters yesterday, making our way into Okisollo Channel toward Surge Rapids. From there we turn north into Whiterock Channel between Read and Maurelle Islands. The rapids are no problem for Capt. Dan, he is becoming a pro at predicting currents and handling the helm of NORTH STAR. We easily ride the flood through the narrows.
Whiterock Channel is narrow and beautiful with a few scattered homes along the shores. We follow the range markers where the channel is just 50 feet wide.
At the Rendezvous Islands we turn south into the Lewis Channel, making our way between Cortes and West Redonda Islands. Veiled by clouds, our surroundings have a threatening look today.
A stop is made in Teakerne Arm on West Redonda Island to see the waterfall. We pass an oyster farm on the way to the falls. We haven't been to this site since our first Desolation Sound cruise in 2012, and we are pleased to see a new dinghy dock for those who wish to hike to the lake above the waterfall.
We venture further in to the Arm, following the magnificent rock faces along the shore and looking for the little nook where we anchored in 2012 on our R25SC, "Hoku Kai". We find the nook and are flooded with wonderful memories. We decide to stay and drop anchor for tonight. Well, it isn't to be. The rode snags in the windlass, and Dan dismantles the windlass to free the rode. He gets the windlass working again, but there is some damage to the rode that needs attention. We don't want to risk being in such a remote setting if we have additional problems. We do manage to have our lunch in this lovely spot before moving on.
We are off again, following along the rock faces of Teakerne Arm and then crossing the Lewis Channel to Squirrel Cove on Cortes Island. The Squirrel Cove Trading Co. located near the entrance carries provisions as well as marine hardware. We'll be comfortable dropping our anchor nearby.
We pass the "town" area of Squirrel Cove, cruising past the small islets to the basin at head of the cove before dropping our anchor. There are a lot of boats anchored here (at least compared to what we have seen so far on this cruise!), but there is plenty of room. It is hardly a crowd today.
A paddle along the islets is irresistible. The rocky shores are richly encrusted with oysters.
Date: July 13, 2016
Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island
Weather: Sunny with clouds, 72 degrees
Happy 19th Anniversary to Kelda and Tom! What a great day. We have sun in the morning, and start the day in shorts and T shirts. The cabin is wide open for fresh air. Dan is heading off for a shore hike while I give the cabin a good cleaning. He takes the kayak to shore, looking for the trail to Von Donop Inlet. We had attempted to hike from Von Donop to Squirrel Cove on our 2012 cruise, but never found the trail. He finds that it is pretty overgrown from this end. A hike isn't going to be on our agenda!
Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island
Weather: Sunny with clouds, 72 degrees
Happy 19th Anniversary to Kelda and Tom! What a great day. We have sun in the morning, and start the day in shorts and T shirts. The cabin is wide open for fresh air. Dan is heading off for a shore hike while I give the cabin a good cleaning. He takes the kayak to shore, looking for the trail to Von Donop Inlet. We had attempted to hike from Von Donop to Squirrel Cove on our 2012 cruise, but never found the trail. He finds that it is pretty overgrown from this end. A hike isn't going to be on our agenda!
In need of a few provisions, we take the dinghy with the Torqeedo for a ride to the store and restaurant near the mouth of the cove. It takes us an hour as we follow the shore and go between islets. Lunch is on the outside deck of the restaurant with views of the cove. We have fresh spring rolls, followed by fish and chips and iced tea. We are surprised that octopus is on the menu! Octopus cocktails and octopus burgers!
A kiosk catches Dan's attention as it provides information about shellfish here. Next to the kiosk is a small shop selling local arts and crafts. It is really tempting to do some shopping!
The store doesn't have a very great selection of what we need most, mainly fresh produce. We pick up some much needed bread and milk, along with some fresh tomatoes.
The wind has picked up and makes our return trip a lot faster, just half an hour to get back to NORTH STAR. A Ranger Tug called "Squirrel Tug 2" is anchored in front of the main dock in front of the store. It's a fun ride in the dinghy as we pass the picturesque islets. A rope swing on the shore is getting put to use on this warm summer day.
The wind has picked up and makes our return trip a lot faster, just half an hour to get back to NORTH STAR. A Ranger Tug called "Squirrel Tug 2" is anchored in front of the main dock in front of the store. It's a fun ride in the dinghy as we pass the picturesque islets. A rope swing on the shore is getting put to use on this warm summer day.
Dan checks the water temperature. It is 73 degrees at the surface! We finally get our first swim and salt water bath of the summer! The cool water feels so soft and wonderful, like the fountain of youth. We could be 15 again. Totally refreshing, this swim is what I dream about in my indoor pool water exercise classes at home.
From a neighboring boat, we get serenaded with live music. A woman with a beautiful voice sings song after song, Joni Mitchell style, as she accompanies herself with a guitar. It is lovely to have the sounds drift across the water as we prepare our dinner. Then, evening is beyond beautiful, the sun low and warm, the water glossy and reflecting.
From a neighboring boat, we get serenaded with live music. A woman with a beautiful voice sings song after song, Joni Mitchell style, as she accompanies herself with a guitar. It is lovely to have the sounds drift across the water as we prepare our dinner. Then, evening is beyond beautiful, the sun low and warm, the water glossy and reflecting.
It's my favorite time of day to row, and I glide along the largest islet, clinging close to the rocks, seeing deep into the clear water. Oysters, rocks, algae, tiny small fish, and the island itself bathed in the final rays of the sun, it is so magical to be here.
Paddling out, I relax and drift back with the current, soaking in all of the surrounding beauty. What a way to finish a day!
Date: July 14, 2016
Time Start: 10:25 a.m.
Time Finish: 2:10 p.m.
Cruise From: Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island
Cruise To: Oyster Cove, Pendrell Sound, E. Redonda Island
Engine Hours Start: 488
Engine Hours Finish: 492
Weather/sea conditions: Partly cloudy, breeze, showers, clearing, upper 60's
Dan takes over the galley to prepare a breakfast of hot biscuits and eggs. A breeze ripples the waters of Squirrel Cove, but the day is already warming into the 60's and we expect good weather. Pendrell Sound is our destination today. We cross Lewis Channel and then enter Homfray Channel. Two Ranger Tugs are along West Redonda, making their way into Refuge Cove. Kayakers have a camp and are on the water between W. Redonda and Martin Island, and are using a sail! The clouds hang low on the distant mountains. Two whales spout before we reach Waddington Channel, and we see a pod of Orcas passing along the opposite shore, near Prideaux Haven. They are too far away for us to really observe.
Time Start: 10:25 a.m.
Time Finish: 2:10 p.m.
Cruise From: Squirrel Cove, Cortes Island
Cruise To: Oyster Cove, Pendrell Sound, E. Redonda Island
Engine Hours Start: 488
Engine Hours Finish: 492
Weather/sea conditions: Partly cloudy, breeze, showers, clearing, upper 60's
Dan takes over the galley to prepare a breakfast of hot biscuits and eggs. A breeze ripples the waters of Squirrel Cove, but the day is already warming into the 60's and we expect good weather. Pendrell Sound is our destination today. We cross Lewis Channel and then enter Homfray Channel. Two Ranger Tugs are along West Redonda, making their way into Refuge Cove. Kayakers have a camp and are on the water between W. Redonda and Martin Island, and are using a sail! The clouds hang low on the distant mountains. Two whales spout before we reach Waddington Channel, and we see a pod of Orcas passing along the opposite shore, near Prideaux Haven. They are too far away for us to really observe.
We turn up Waddington Channel between E. and W. Redonda Islands, then enter Pendrell Sound. The Sound almost splits E. Redonda into two islands, but not quite. Snow capped mountains are peeking out from behind the clouds. We do an exercise to get any kinks out of our anchor rode before finding an anchorage. The water is deep, and the rode is let out all of the way with the anchor dangling at the end of the chain, hoping that all of the twists will work their way out.
We search for a suitable anchorage, settling on the shore called "Oyster Cove" behind a small islet that is dubbed "Shell Island". We have great mountain views. It is a lovely spot. Now for the challenges of anchoring. It takes us a good hour to get the job done. Stern tie completed, the anchor slips on the steep bottom and has to be reset. And so it all gets complicated, but finally we are in place.
We search for a suitable anchorage, settling on the shore called "Oyster Cove" behind a small islet that is dubbed "Shell Island". We have great mountain views. It is a lovely spot. Now for the challenges of anchoring. It takes us a good hour to get the job done. Stern tie completed, the anchor slips on the steep bottom and has to be reset. And so it all gets complicated, but finally we are in place.
We enjoy a late lunch with our terrific mountain views. More boats arrive, filling in the cove. Dan gets a swim when the kayak flips on him. The water is warm, we both swim.
The area is thick with oysters and oyster shell debris. An inlet flows into the cove and is only accessible by small boats at high tide. It, too, is filled with oysters. And some nice huckleberries!
Four seals swim about our anchorage while we have dinner in the cockpit. They snort like old men. An evening row is beautiful with the sun and clouds highlighting the mountains. Our shore has been in the shade since four p.m. We hope we get lots of morning sun to make up for it!
.Date: July 15, 2016
Oyster Cove, Pendrell Sound, E. Redonda Island
Weather: Cloudy morning clearing to sun and upper 70's
On this calm, quiet morning, our stern almost touches the shoreline of oyster-covered boulders. Fortunately, the shore immediately drops to deep depths. All of the boats are close to the beach, even sailboats with their deep keels. There is no danger of hitting the bottom at low tide! What a lot of beauty surrounds us as we start our day.
Oyster Cove, Pendrell Sound, E. Redonda Island
Weather: Cloudy morning clearing to sun and upper 70's
On this calm, quiet morning, our stern almost touches the shoreline of oyster-covered boulders. Fortunately, the shore immediately drops to deep depths. All of the boats are close to the beach, even sailboats with their deep keels. There is no danger of hitting the bottom at low tide! What a lot of beauty surrounds us as we start our day.
Mid morning is perfect for a swim. We have warm sun and calm, clear water. Dan dons his wetsuit to replace the propeller zinc and clean under the swim step. Lots of bryozoas have found a home there. We are having the kind of relaxing day in an awesome setting that makes you want to linger for days.
We only get enough afternoon wind for a few ripples on the water. Dan picks some huckleberries from along the shore. It looks like we will have just one other boat as neighbors tonight. An eagle watches from a high perch on "Shell Island". We grill chicken in the cockpit, and then it's time for evening paddles.
We row, paddle, and drift on calm water, the mountains clear, the moon rising while there is still sunlight, feeling mellow as we soak in the beauty of Pendrell Sound. The water is so clear that we can see bags of oysters on the bottom of the cove.
As daylight fades, the colors of the sunset reflect on the mountains. We have front row seats to enjoy the changing spectacle.
Date: July 16, 2016
Oyster Cove, Pendrell Sound
Weather: Gray but warm, clouds hugging mountains today, mid 70's
Saturday morning opera serenades us while we feast on Dan's fresh huckleberry pancakes. The tide is super low on this gray day, and we have pulled NORTH STAR out farther from shore to compensate. Sitting atop the trees on Shell Island are not one, but two eagles!
Oyster Cove, Pendrell Sound
Weather: Gray but warm, clouds hugging mountains today, mid 70's
Saturday morning opera serenades us while we feast on Dan's fresh huckleberry pancakes. The tide is super low on this gray day, and we have pulled NORTH STAR out farther from shore to compensate. Sitting atop the trees on Shell Island are not one, but two eagles!
Oyster Cove is all ours for now, the lone sailboat here overnight has moved on. The air is warm, and the sounds of birds carry across the water of the cove. It's time for a dinghy trip to the head of the sound, checking out the oyster operations along the way. Collecting oyster spat (seed) is a big activity in Pendrell Sound, as evidenced by the bags of shell found along the beach here in this cove. We find that some of the sites have been neglected and debris has been left behind.
The largest and most sophisticated oyster operation sits next to an island near the head of the Sound. We go in close for a look.
The operations continue behind the island. We weave our way through the shallow water there. The back side of the island has a high rock face. We pull alongside, a perfect spot to stop for a snack, taking in the views around us.
We continue back into the Sound, where "Sinbad", a mega yacht from Seattle, is anchored. A couple of kayakers are also circling the island. We are surprised to see very few boats anchored at the head of the Sound. We were here a year ago when there were a lot of boats. (see 2015 Summer Cruise). What does surprise us are the number of starfish we are seeing, a vast improvement over last year when there were none to be found.
Returning to NORTH STAR, we are delighted to see black oystercatchers on the rocks of our cove, standing out with their bright orange beaks.
After swims and dinner, the mountains are popping out from under the clouds. It is time for our evening paddles! The black oystercatchers at the north end of the cove are the highlight tonight. There are chicks as well as adults, and we watch as the adults fly in and out bringing food for the chicks. The sound of their chatter is wonderful!
With clearing skies and setting sun, the day ending scenery from NORTH STAR in Oyster Cove is again magical. We are the only ones here.
Date: July 17, 2016
Time Start: Noon
Time Finish: 2:10 p.m.
Cruise From: Oyster Cove, Pendrell Sound, E. Redonda Island
Cruise To: Laura Cove, B.C. mainland
Engine Hours Start: 492
Engine Hours Finish: 494
Weather/sea conditions: Gray morning, warming to 80 degrees! Thunderstorm with rain.
A canopy of stars was visible over us last night, but the clouds have returned today. The sun is struggling to make an appearance. The tide is out, water calm, air warm. We go for one last paddle around the fringes of Oyster Cove, enjoying looking into the clear depths. Lots of colorful sea stars can be seen, and many are baby sized. Pendrell Sound seems to be a haven for them, along with the prolific oysters.
Time Start: Noon
Time Finish: 2:10 p.m.
Cruise From: Oyster Cove, Pendrell Sound, E. Redonda Island
Cruise To: Laura Cove, B.C. mainland
Engine Hours Start: 492
Engine Hours Finish: 494
Weather/sea conditions: Gray morning, warming to 80 degrees! Thunderstorm with rain.
A canopy of stars was visible over us last night, but the clouds have returned today. The sun is struggling to make an appearance. The tide is out, water calm, air warm. We go for one last paddle around the fringes of Oyster Cove, enjoying looking into the clear depths. Lots of colorful sea stars can be seen, and many are baby sized. Pendrell Sound seems to be a haven for them, along with the prolific oysters.
It's time for a swim, the water is a balmy 70 degrees and refreshing. As we leave Oyster Cove, another boat arrives to take our place. An eagle bids us farewell. We carry great memories of Pendrell Sound with us.
The scenery in Homfray Channel is absolutely stunning. Sinbad passes by, throwing her wake our way. It looks like she is making a return visit to Pendrell Sound after leaving for a day.
The anchorages of Prideaux Haven include Melanie and Laura Coves as well as Prideaux Haven. Nearby is Roffey Island. We pull into Roffey first, but don't find a suitable spot to drop our anchor. We move on to Melanie Cove where we find an inviting spot along an islet with amazing mountain views, one other boat tucked in beside us. With an 80 degree day, we swim, and I get a paddle in the kayak along the wonderful little islets.
And then . . . thunder! Clouds have gathered around the mountains, we have lightening bolts, and a summer rain falls on us.
We suddenly realize that our anchor is dragging. We go into action and decide that we need to move NORTH STAR to a better spot. It takes us an hour to make the move. We opt for an anchorage in Melanie Cove under a high rock face where there is a stern tie chain waiting for us.
Date: July 18, 2016
Melanie Cove
Weather: Partly cloudy and breezy morning, turning sunny, upper 70/s, afternoon thunderstorm
It's a real Desolation Sound day! We are in the official Desolation Sound Marine Park, waking up in Melanie Cove with a receding tide and clearing skies. We load up the dinghy for a slow cruise through the waters of Melanie and Laura Coves and Prideaux Haven, the three interconnected water bodies that make up the park. This is an extremely popular cruising area, noted for its beauty.
The mountains of mainland B.C. as well as those of E. Redondo Island create spectacular viewscapes. Little islands and islets hug the coast of mainland B.C. here, making lots of nooks and crannies for anchoring. For those who have read the popular book "The Curve of Time", Phil's cabin was located at the head of Laura Cove and the site of Mike's cabin lies at the head of Melanie Cove. A trail still connects the two sites.
Photos from the dinghy cruise:
Melanie Cove
Weather: Partly cloudy and breezy morning, turning sunny, upper 70/s, afternoon thunderstorm
It's a real Desolation Sound day! We are in the official Desolation Sound Marine Park, waking up in Melanie Cove with a receding tide and clearing skies. We load up the dinghy for a slow cruise through the waters of Melanie and Laura Coves and Prideaux Haven, the three interconnected water bodies that make up the park. This is an extremely popular cruising area, noted for its beauty.
The mountains of mainland B.C. as well as those of E. Redondo Island create spectacular viewscapes. Little islands and islets hug the coast of mainland B.C. here, making lots of nooks and crannies for anchoring. For those who have read the popular book "The Curve of Time", Phil's cabin was located at the head of Laura Cove and the site of Mike's cabin lies at the head of Melanie Cove. A trail still connects the two sites.
Photos from the dinghy cruise:
At one point in Laura Cove, a school of small fish are jumping out of the water all around us, quite a sight and lots of fun! See the video below.
About a dozen boats are anchored in Melanie Cove. Swims feel great on this warm summer day. We are entertained as we watch a young boy attempting to row a dinghy. He has no control and is blown by the wind to the head of the cove where he lands on the small island, awaiting rescue by his parents (they are on their way!). A large dog in a dinghy wears a T- shirt. Sun protection? Or to keep him clean on a shore visit? Dinghies parade through these waters, just like we did this morning. It is a vacation land of couples and families having a great time on their boats and in the water. We are having a great time, too!
Melanie Cove photos:
Melanie Cove photos:
Dinner time arrives along with a cloudburst! Wow! We go from sun to darkening skies to a deluge, complete with thunder and lightening. See the video below.
It's a perfect night to curl up in the cabin and watch a movie.
Return to Boat Days Index
Continue to next entry
Return to Boat Days Index
Continue to next entry