ten weeks: Port neville
Date: July 4, 2016
Time Start: 8:45 a.m.
Time Finish: 1:45 p.m.
Cruise From: Goat Islet, Crease Island
Cruise To: Port Neville, Johnstone Strait
Engine Hours Start: 467
Engine Hours Finish: 472
Weather/sea conditions: Cool, showery morning, heavy clouds and strong winds, low 60's
It's the FOURTH OF JULY! And, it's the start of our sixth week of this adventure! Our flag hangs wet and limp on this gray day. We are leaving the Broughtons, the land of the eagle and the raven and the blackfish, behind us today, once again cruising in Johnstone Strait as we start our cruise toward home. We estimate that we are about mid point in this cruise now, as we plan to spend time in the Discovery Islands, Desolation Sound, the Sunshine Coast, Gulf Islands, San Juan Islands, and Puget Sound on our return to home port in Olympia.
We leave Goat Islet in rain, weaving our way out through the islets and islands of Blackfish Sound to Blackney Passage and then Johnstone Strait. The shorelines are shrouded in the mist, just shadows as we pass by. We can make out the tribal site across from Freshwater Bay. The buildings are decorated with native art.
Time Start: 8:45 a.m.
Time Finish: 1:45 p.m.
Cruise From: Goat Islet, Crease Island
Cruise To: Port Neville, Johnstone Strait
Engine Hours Start: 467
Engine Hours Finish: 472
Weather/sea conditions: Cool, showery morning, heavy clouds and strong winds, low 60's
It's the FOURTH OF JULY! And, it's the start of our sixth week of this adventure! Our flag hangs wet and limp on this gray day. We are leaving the Broughtons, the land of the eagle and the raven and the blackfish, behind us today, once again cruising in Johnstone Strait as we start our cruise toward home. We estimate that we are about mid point in this cruise now, as we plan to spend time in the Discovery Islands, Desolation Sound, the Sunshine Coast, Gulf Islands, San Juan Islands, and Puget Sound on our return to home port in Olympia.
We leave Goat Islet in rain, weaving our way out through the islets and islands of Blackfish Sound to Blackney Passage and then Johnstone Strait. The shorelines are shrouded in the mist, just shadows as we pass by. We can make out the tribal site across from Freshwater Bay. The buildings are decorated with native art.
The swirling waters in Blackney Passage slow us to 4 knots. A cruise ship suddenly appears out of Johnstone Strait from behind West Cracroft Island, and along side it we spot humpback whales. There is no indication that the ship has spotted them. We are reminded of our visit to the whale center in Telegraph Cove and the displays about the number of whales killed each year by passing ships. In this case, the whales and ships both travel the same routes, so there must always be a risk for the whales. It is about impossible for a ship of this size to suddenly slow or alter course.
Log watch is a necessity in Johnstone Strait today. Several fishing boats are headed north as we head south. Fortunately, the winds are in our favor, north westerlies, so that we are not headed into the swells.
The skies begin to clear once we are past West Cracroft and passing the Broken Islands. This is where we turned out of Johnstone Strait to make our way to Port Harvey on our cruise north in early June! What a lot we have experienced since then.
We are enjoying the skies, the rolling motions, and music from our fusion stereo as we ply the cold waters of Johnstone Strait. A sign on our visit to Telegraph Cove indicated that the water here is about 45 degrees! (It wasn't all that much warmer in the Broughtons, either!) From Tina Turner to Johnny Cash to Keola Beamer, we have a good variety of music. We sing along to Proud Mary as we roll along, a sharp contrast to the Hawaiian slack key guitar work of Keola Beamer. We are having a fun ride as we take in the scenery along the way.
At Milly Island, we make the turn into the eight mile long arm of water on the B.C. mainland that is the location of Port Neville. Knowing that the winds are supposed to really kick up later this afternoon and evening, we decide that we should dock here for the night. This is a good port in a storm for a small boat like ours. Fishing boats like to duck in here, too.
A cell phone rings! It is our daughter! We haven't had the connections to chat in ever so long, and are really missing being with our family for the Fourth of July today. What a treat to chat with her and catch up. E mails and texts are good, but there is nothing like the voice and the back and forth of a real conversation!
We make our way to the Port Neville dock. The current is strong, and we are happy that other boaters are waiting to assist us. Guidebooks warn about the currents at the government float, and they are right.
A cell phone rings! It is our daughter! We haven't had the connections to chat in ever so long, and are really missing being with our family for the Fourth of July today. What a treat to chat with her and catch up. E mails and texts are good, but there is nothing like the voice and the back and forth of a real conversation!
We make our way to the Port Neville dock. The current is strong, and we are happy that other boaters are waiting to assist us. Guidebooks warn about the currents at the government float, and they are right.
We meet Chet McArthur and his wife Teresa, who live here as caretakers and oversee use of the old government dock. Port Neville is quite historical, the dock dates from the Union Steamship days. Port Neville was named by Capt. Vancouver in 1792. The post office operated until 2010, the longest continually operating post office in British Columbia. The store closed earlier, in 1960.
Chet and Teresa live in the house once occupied by the Hansen family. They have a lease which will expire in another year. During their time here, they have had some amazing experiences, and very willingly share stories with us. Bears are a part of many stories, this is grizzly country, and they have had numerous encounters. We learn that bears are active on the property right now, so we know to be aware.
Historical displays on the dock at Port Neville:
Historical displays on the dock at Port Neville:
The homestead at Port Neville, including house, barn, a guest house, and grounds, all currently maintained by Chet and Teresa:
The beach at Port Neville:
A Norwegian named Hans Hansen homesteaded Port Neville starting in 1891, raising his family here, and his son Olaf is a legend of this coast. He died in 1997 at the age of 87. His widow Lilly continued to live here for a few years. Then, their granddaughter Lorna took over the job of postmaster, raising a daughter in what is now the guest house. The post office finally closed in 2010 and Lorna moved to Campbell River. Family members still continue to visit Port Neville. We didn't realize it, but two family members were on the dock today to assist us with our docking! Unfortunately, they left before we learned of their identity and connection to Port Neville.
The store/house was built in 1927, barn was built in 1936, the main house in 1938, and the guest house in 1948.
It is time for us to celebrate the 4th! The winds, as predicted, are howling, up to 40 knot winds are predicted, and we are tucked into the cabin of NORTH STAR for our picnic. We are happy to NOT be out in Johnstone Strait! From inside the cabin, we are keeping a lookout for bears that might wander onto the beach, really hoping to spot some grizzlies. No such luck today. Click if you want to see our happy heads!
It is time for us to celebrate the 4th! The winds, as predicted, are howling, up to 40 knot winds are predicted, and we are tucked into the cabin of NORTH STAR for our picnic. We are happy to NOT be out in Johnstone Strait! From inside the cabin, we are keeping a lookout for bears that might wander onto the beach, really hoping to spot some grizzlies. No such luck today. Click if you want to see our happy heads!
Date: July 5, 2016
Port Neville
Weather: Gray and cool morning
We get a little more of the Port Neville story this morning, learning that Chet and Teresa are part of the "Coastal Messenger" missionary group. By coincidence, we had met some of the group and toured their vessel in Tacoma earlier this year (see our Dock Street Cruise). They have known the Hansen family for some 35 years. After Chet and Teresa complete their stay here, it is likely that the 70 acre property here at Port Neville will be subdivided. What will happen with the government dock or preservation of buildings is an unknown.
Chet and Teresa in the Port Neville house:
Port Neville
Weather: Gray and cool morning
We get a little more of the Port Neville story this morning, learning that Chet and Teresa are part of the "Coastal Messenger" missionary group. By coincidence, we had met some of the group and toured their vessel in Tacoma earlier this year (see our Dock Street Cruise). They have known the Hansen family for some 35 years. After Chet and Teresa complete their stay here, it is likely that the 70 acre property here at Port Neville will be subdivided. What will happen with the government dock or preservation of buildings is an unknown.
Chet and Teresa in the Port Neville house:
The tide is low and the ramp on the dock steep. Kelp and ulva are hanging like laundry from the pilings, making for some interesting photos. Who can resist? Not us! Anemones and crabs are exposed, too. Small fish swim around the pilings.
These next photos are all verticals, clicking is needed to reveal the whole photo.
Chet sees us off, releasing our dock lines, and it is farewell to Port Neville. We have had a great visit here!
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