Ten weeks: the broughtons part 2
We are starting to get a feel for cruising in the Broughtons. We are in such an unpopulated place, a wilderness of shorelines that are for the most part steep and/or thickly forested. The "people" places are few and far between, and communications such as WIFI are sporadic at best. We are pretty amazed that our little Ranger Tug has the capacity to carry and store everything we really need. Our provisioning before starting out is holding up well. Fresh water and fuel are our two basic provisioning needs, and so far those needs have been met. We are ready to continue with this adventure! Stick with us as we cruise to Laura Bay on Broughton Island, Anne Cove in Mackenzie Sound, the Muirhead Islands in Drury Inlet, Sullivan Bay on Broughton Island, Waddington Bay on Bonwick Island, Seabreeze Cove on Gilford Island, and Spout Bay on Hanson Island.
Date: June 20, 2016
Time Start: 11:40 a.m.
Time Finish: 12:50 p.m.
Cruise From: Echo Bay, Gilford Island
Cruise To: Laura Bay, Broughton Island
Engine Hours Start: 442
Engine Hours Finish: 443
Weather/sea conditions: Gray morning clearing to blue skies, NW winds, upper 60's
Echo Bay is about empty, only three boats here, yet it is all booked up for the weekends ahead! Starting this coming weekend boaters can expect the famous pig roasts, prime rib night and fish and chips in the restaurant, and the store will be stocked. It is hard to imagine how busy it will be, and reservations will be a must. But not now!
Dan does a quick visit to the shore of Echo Bay, entering from the government dock to see the now abandoned sites of the old school and community center.
Time Start: 11:40 a.m.
Time Finish: 12:50 p.m.
Cruise From: Echo Bay, Gilford Island
Cruise To: Laura Bay, Broughton Island
Engine Hours Start: 442
Engine Hours Finish: 443
Weather/sea conditions: Gray morning clearing to blue skies, NW winds, upper 60's
Echo Bay is about empty, only three boats here, yet it is all booked up for the weekends ahead! Starting this coming weekend boaters can expect the famous pig roasts, prime rib night and fish and chips in the restaurant, and the store will be stocked. It is hard to imagine how busy it will be, and reservations will be a must. But not now!
Dan does a quick visit to the shore of Echo Bay, entering from the government dock to see the now abandoned sites of the old school and community center.
We plan to anchor out tonight, if all goes well, giving our spare anchor a test in relatively shallow and protected waters. We check out with Jesse in the Echo Bay store as the clouds are lifting and skies turning to blue. We are on our way to Laura Cove on Broughton Island, off of Penphrase Passage. We get our last views of Echo Bay and then have beautiful mountain and island views along the way.
Laura Bay is drop dead gorgeous! A circle of forest surrounds blue water with an islet in the center. We drop our anchor and opt for a stern tie to shore. And the stern tie takes over an hour! With a strong current, shallow waters, and wind, it is difficult on my end to keep NORTH STAR lined up for the shore tie. And, Dan has problems on his end. He slips on the rocks, gets wet, his life jacket inflates on him, and he gets a few barnacle cuts on his hands. I manage to keep NORTH STAR off of the rocks, and Dan manages to get the shore tie completed. Whew! We are more than ready to enjoy this anchorage, and we have it all to ourselves.
Afternoon goes so quickly as we row and kayak and explore Laura Cove. What a lovely spot to be on this sunny day!
Officially this is the first day of summer! We opt for dinner in the cockpit with salmon cooked on the Magma grill, Greek salads, and the last of our homemade pumpkin bread.
There is not a cloud in the sky for sunset today, and the sun drops behind the island before 8 p.m. The winds continue to blow. And the tides keep changing. We experience as much as 15 foot tides here, making for continually changing shorelines. Rocks get exposed and then hidden again. Our views are never the same!
Date: June 21, 2016
Time Start: 10:50 a.mm.
Time Finish: 2:15 p.m.
Cruise From: Laura Bay, Broughton Island
Cruise To: Anne Cove, Mackenzie Sound
Engine Hours Start: 444
Engine Hours Finish: 447
Weather/sea conditions: Gray morning, windy, rain in afternoon, upper 50's
The tide is low in Laura Bay this morning, exposing the rocks along the shoreline. Algae in shades of greenish and golden brown along with barnacles encrust the exposed rocks far above the water. The islet in the center of the bay with its crown of trees reminds us of a castle rising above a moat - perhaps Mt. St. Michel in France?
Date: June 21, 2016
Time Start: 10:50 a.mm.
Time Finish: 2:15 p.m.
Cruise From: Laura Bay, Broughton Island
Cruise To: Anne Cove, Mackenzie Sound
Engine Hours Start: 444
Engine Hours Finish: 447
Weather/sea conditions: Gray morning, windy, rain in afternoon, upper 50's
The tide is low in Laura Bay this morning, exposing the rocks along the shoreline. Algae in shades of greenish and golden brown along with barnacles encrust the exposed rocks far above the water. The islet in the center of the bay with its crown of trees reminds us of a castle rising above a moat - perhaps Mt. St. Michel in France?
A row reveals eel grass beds in the drying channel. A flat fish scurries away, there are schools of small fish and lots of clams on the bottom. The birds we have seen here? Ravens and hummingbirds, but no eagles.
The plan today is to head back into Penphrase Passage and continue to follow along Broughton Island into Sutlei Channel, finally making our way into Mackenzie Sound. We release the stern tie, pull the anchor, and are on our way. The views open up outside Laura Bay to reveal the mountains of mainland British Columbia.
A lone sailboat is headed in the opposite direction. Soon we are on the radio chatting with Dave on Yonder, he and Sally have been in Mackenzie Sound, dining at the famous Nimmo Bay Resort. Now they are on their way to check out Laura Bay. We seem to be trading places in our destinations!
And here are some photos of Yonder, and of our cruise toward Mackenzie Sound!
And here are some photos of Yonder, and of our cruise toward Mackenzie Sound!
Gray skies, steep rock faces, and rain! These words describe this portion of the cruise. As we enter Grappler Sound, we see the spouts of a couple of whales, but they never surface. Where did they go? We would love to have them make an appearance!
We wind through the islets of Grappler Sound, so incredibly beautiful in the misty rain. What an adventure we are having! We are in places we never dreamed of, never even knew they existed.
We wind through the islets of Grappler Sound, so incredibly beautiful in the misty rain. What an adventure we are having! We are in places we never dreamed of, never even knew they existed.
We are now in Mackenzie Sound, and we drop our anchor in a spot that Dreamspeaker has named "Anne Cove". We are midway between Steamboat Bay and the head of the sound. The afternoon is rainy. It is time for a luxurious nap, some photo sorting, and reading. Dan heads out for some wet exploration of the cove. Then, it is the perfect evening for bowls of hot chile and corn muffins.
Date: June 22, 2016
Time Start: 8:30 a.m.
Time Finish: 11:30 a.m.
Cruise From: Anne Cove, Mackenzie Sound
Cruise To: Muirhead Islands, Drury Inlet
Engine Hours Start: 447
Engine Hours Finish: 450
Weather/sea conditions: Showers, gray, low 60's
The Captain gets us off early to catch tides and currents. In spite of raindrops falling, Mackenzie Sound has a quiet beauty this morning, with clouds hanging low against the hills and mountainsides. The tide is low, putting the shores on pedestals of algae and barnacle clad rocks. It is so quiet, and so lovely, a beautiful beginning to the day.
Time Start: 8:30 a.m.
Time Finish: 11:30 a.m.
Cruise From: Anne Cove, Mackenzie Sound
Cruise To: Muirhead Islands, Drury Inlet
Engine Hours Start: 447
Engine Hours Finish: 450
Weather/sea conditions: Showers, gray, low 60's
The Captain gets us off early to catch tides and currents. In spite of raindrops falling, Mackenzie Sound has a quiet beauty this morning, with clouds hanging low against the hills and mountainsides. The tide is low, putting the shores on pedestals of algae and barnacle clad rocks. It is so quiet, and so lovely, a beautiful beginning to the day.
Where there are narrow channels, the water rushes through and creates rapids. Steep rock faces along the way rise high above us. Be sure to click for vertical photos!
We make the turn from Grappler Sound into Drury Inlet. The entrance is narrow and best done at slack or low flood tide. Stuart Narrows is the spot to be cautious. Our VHF tells us a barge will pass through in ten minutes. We zip right through without a problem. We find ourselves in an area of low lying hills, and there is lots of evidence that logging is active here in Drury Inlet.
The Muirhead Islands are small, low lying, scenic and numerous. Seals are basking and splashing on the rocks. This just might be a great spot to break out the kayaks!
We weave our way through the islets, keeping watch for shallow rocks, and finally find a spot to drop anchor in 14 feet at low tide. A stern tie is made to shore, wrapping the line around a felled tree. Is it high enough not to float away at high tide?? Fingers crossed that it will stay. What a setting we have surrounding us!
Showers continue to darken the day. A seal keeps watch over us. Have we invaded its territory? Probably so. Eagles soar high in the sky, four of them, gliding on the winds. We have ravens, too, gliding lower and calling from the trees. (Vertical photos.)
With shower after shower, we should rename these islands and call them the Misty Islets. A short weather break is an opportunity for some exploration and photos. Dinner is once again inside the cabin of NORTH STAR.
A weather report we listened to today gave this report: Sunset 9:47 p.m., Nautical Twilight 11:44 p.m. and again at 3:18 a.m.! Wow! What a lot of lingering daylight to enjoy here! We are the farthest north that we will be on this cruise, beyond 51 degrees north!
Date: June 23, 2016
Time Start: 9:25 a.m.
Time Finish: 11:30 a.m.
Cruise From: Muirhead Islands, Drury Inlet
Cruise To: Sullivan Bay, Broughton Island
Engine Hours Start: 451
Engine Hours Finish: 453
Weather/sea conditions: Wet morning! Low clouds and rain, upper 50's, dry evening
It is so wet and rainy this morning that we feel a bit like Capt. Vancouver, ready for some sun. Dan is into cooking a breakfast of eggs and toast, then we will go out with the tide, leaving the Muirhead Islands behind. We don't have enough solar power to turn on our heat on this 54 degree morning, and our windows are steamy.
Dan dons his raincoat to pull in the stern line, mount the dinghy, and raise the anchor while I tend the helm. We are off, saying farewell to these "misty" islets.
The clouds sit low as we make our way out of Drury Inlet (yes, "Dreary" Inlet today!), and raindrops bead on the steamy windows and slide down the glass. RainX really helps! Luckily we just applied a fresh coat a few days ago.
We pass "Bughouse Bay". A lake called "Bughouse Lake" sits behind it. An inviting anchorage? No way! Once again we transit Stuart Narrows. We get a quick view of a pod of dolphins heading in the opposite direction and then they are gone.
We are back into waters with mountain views instead of the low hills of Drury Inlet. We pull into Sulllivan Bay, the biggest community we have seen in the Broughtons, and it is made up entirely of floating homes and businesses. A fuel stop is first on our list. We note that there is a store, a restaurant, laundry, and . . . showers! Hooray! There are several well kept float homes as well, and lots of moorage space for visiting boats. We get our dock assignment, and tie up in a nice neighborhood.
We pass "Bughouse Bay". A lake called "Bughouse Lake" sits behind it. An inviting anchorage? No way! Once again we transit Stuart Narrows. We get a quick view of a pod of dolphins heading in the opposite direction and then they are gone.
We are back into waters with mountain views instead of the low hills of Drury Inlet. We pull into Sulllivan Bay, the biggest community we have seen in the Broughtons, and it is made up entirely of floating homes and businesses. A fuel stop is first on our list. We note that there is a store, a restaurant, laundry, and . . . showers! Hooray! There are several well kept float homes as well, and lots of moorage space for visiting boats. We get our dock assignment, and tie up in a nice neighborhood.
Time to check out the 'hood!
In this floating community, the docks have street names.
We purchase a few needed items from the store - fresh milk, some produce, and beautiful locally made greeting cards. Have I mentioned that procuring fresh water for our tank is one of our greatest needs? Well, this is what we are up against! At all of the small marinas, we seem to be seeing the same signs about the water supply. Fortunately, we planned ahead and stockpiled an extra twenty four gallons to tide us over in an emergency. Our tank holds fifty gallons. We use our water sparingly. (We have since learned that Sullivan Bay now does UV treatment of the water supply.)
It is a bit like old home week as boaters that we met at Echo Bay are here, including the sailboat "Yachtzee" with Andy, Jill, three year old Porter, and eighteen month old Magnus aboard. They are live aboards, and maintain a website for sailors called "Three Sheets N.W.". The float home next to us was moved here from Echo Bay just two months ago. Its owners are new managers for Sullivan Bay after managing Echo Bay for four years. Their cat gets walked along the docks on a leash! We also meet the couple from California on "Anomaly", an interesting sailboat that has unique features including a garage in the stern for dinghy storage.
Mike, the marina manager, delights the boys with his salt water aquarium. Adults like it, too!
In spite of cold and rain, a few of us make it to the evening happy hour. The highlight of the evening is golf, with the "hole" sitting 140 yards off the end of the dock. Whoever gets closest to the hole gets a free night's moorage. We have a few good golfers in the group (no, not us!), but the Yachtzee crew take the prize.
Date: June 24, 2016
Time Start: 10:55 a.m.
Time Finish: 4:30 p.m.
Cruise From: Sullivan Bay, Broughton Island
Cruise To: Waddington Bay, Bonwick Island
Engine Hours Start: 453
Engine Hours Finish: 457
Weather/sea conditions: Gray and misty morning, then partly cloudy and warmer, upper 50's
A new day is underway on the docks at Sullivan Bay. Fresh cinnamon rolls await us at the store. One boat leaves, heading to Alaska. A supply vessel, the Aurora Explorer based in Campbell River, arrives. She fills the fuel tanks for the marina and then docks to unload supplies for the store. There are also passengers aboard, and we learn that they sign up a year in advance to be able to cruise along with the vessel for a week to wherever it might be headed with its deliveries. Here, they are tourists visiting with us on the docks!
Time Start: 10:55 a.m.
Time Finish: 4:30 p.m.
Cruise From: Sullivan Bay, Broughton Island
Cruise To: Waddington Bay, Bonwick Island
Engine Hours Start: 453
Engine Hours Finish: 457
Weather/sea conditions: Gray and misty morning, then partly cloudy and warmer, upper 50's
A new day is underway on the docks at Sullivan Bay. Fresh cinnamon rolls await us at the store. One boat leaves, heading to Alaska. A supply vessel, the Aurora Explorer based in Campbell River, arrives. She fills the fuel tanks for the marina and then docks to unload supplies for the store. There are also passengers aboard, and we learn that they sign up a year in advance to be able to cruise along with the vessel for a week to wherever it might be headed with its deliveries. Here, they are tourists visiting with us on the docks!
There is a whole lot of excitement on the docks as a Grumman goose lands and docks, bringing in passengers for stays in the float homes. No wheels, no pontoons, she comes in on her belly!
And, of course, we are riveted to watch the take off as well!
It is our turn to leave the floating community of Sullivan Bay. We enter the Sutlei Channel, and before we go far we are having our best sighting of Pacific white sided dolphins yet! They swim near us and frolic a bit, several of them. Such beautiful creatures! How breathtaking! They stick with us for a good twenty minutes, speeding ahead of us, coming back, swimming across our bow and under us. It is hard to predict where and when they will surface next, they are so fast. We try to get some photos and videos, and then spend our time just enjoying their magnificent presence.
We turn into Penphrase Passage, making a stop at Echo Bay with hopes of checking our email. First, we tie up at the old government dock so that Dan can show me the old community center. The dock is dilapidated and in much need of repairs. And the community center is just a ghost of a building, with hints of past activities.
It is a short hop to the Echo Bay float with the store and restaurant. This float happens to be one of the pontoons from the old Lake Washington floating bridge in Seattle! It has made its way all the way to Echo Bay where it has a new life! We aren't able to get a WIFI connection, but treat ourselves to some ice cream from the now well stocked store. And, we get a peek inside the restaurant that is now open.
A seal is busily herding a school of herring alongside the store float and moorage docks. And the seal is pretty efficient in getting them to move and cluster! It looks like feast time for the seal. See a video below.
A familiar vessel, the Aurora Explorer, passes by Echo Bay, and boats (a whole lot bigger than us!) are arriving for the busy weekend here. We have a visit with the crew of three guys from the boat "Rock Me" who were moored here when we were. We also crossed paths with them at Sullivan Bay. It is fun to run into familiar faces and compare cruising stories.
We enter Cramer Pass, on our way to Bonwick Island and Waddington Bay. The route takes us past several picuresque islets.
Four sailboats are at anchor in Waddington Bay. We find a spot to drop our anchor at 20 feet in a very protected spot at the head of the bay, between a small islet and the shore of Bonwick Island.
It's time for a dinghy ride to explore Waddington Bay. The water is so calm, we call it "Reflection Bay".
Date: June 25, 2016
Waddington Bay, Bonwick Island
Weather/sea conditions: Rainy morning, then gray and calm. Sun in afternoon, upper 60's.
As soon as the morning rain stops, we are out to explore the shores of Waddington Bay. The tide is low, exposing beaches where clams can be dug. We have learned that this is one of the places in the Broughtons where there used to be clam gardens tended by the First Nations people, and we hope to find some evidence of them.
Dan takes the kayak to shore while I choose to drift along the rock ledges where I find an abundance of marine life. Starfish cling to the rocks along with anemones and feather worms, and crabs hide out in the crevasses. Schools of small fish swim in the protection of the shallow areas, and clam shells litter the bottom.
Dan's shore photos:
Waddington Bay, Bonwick Island
Weather/sea conditions: Rainy morning, then gray and calm. Sun in afternoon, upper 60's.
As soon as the morning rain stops, we are out to explore the shores of Waddington Bay. The tide is low, exposing beaches where clams can be dug. We have learned that this is one of the places in the Broughtons where there used to be clam gardens tended by the First Nations people, and we hope to find some evidence of them.
Dan takes the kayak to shore while I choose to drift along the rock ledges where I find an abundance of marine life. Starfish cling to the rocks along with anemones and feather worms, and crabs hide out in the crevasses. Schools of small fish swim in the protection of the shallow areas, and clam shells litter the bottom.
Dan's shore photos:
My drifting photos:
Dan, too, decides to follow the shore to observe this rich area, spending time in the area that we both sense might have been a clam garden.
We spot at least three bald eagles fishing the head of the bay, swooping down from the trees to pick up their prey.
As the afternoon warms and the sun pops out, so do the flies, biting ones, and a few yellow jackets, too. They seem to be attracted to our cockpit. Too much yellow?
I go for a row, enjoying smooth waters until the S.W. winds suddenly kick up. Returning to NORTH STAR becomes a challenge as I am rowing against the wind, and the stern keeps moving and swinging with the wind and outgoing tidal current. It takes a few passes before I finally manage to grab ahold of the swim step rails. The good part is that the wind has blown the bugs away!
I go for a row, enjoying smooth waters until the S.W. winds suddenly kick up. Returning to NORTH STAR becomes a challenge as I am rowing against the wind, and the stern keeps moving and swinging with the wind and outgoing tidal current. It takes a few passes before I finally manage to grab ahold of the swim step rails. The good part is that the wind has blown the bugs away!
A C-Dory anchors near us. Eagles are chasing each other in the sky. We fix a favorite boat dinner, salmon on the grill with Greek salads. (Red peppers, cucumbers, tomatoes, onions, olives, feta, and salad dressing all seem to keep quite well on the boat!)
Date: June 26, 2016
Time Start: 10 a.m.
Time Finish: 10:50 a.m.
Cruise From: Waddington Bay, Bonwick Island
Cruise To: Seabreeze Cove, Gilford Island
Engine Hours Start: 457
Engine Hours Finish: 458
Weather/sea conditions: Gray skies turning blue, strong N.W. winds, cool, mid 50's
The morning gray evaporates as we have our breakfast, making way for scattered clouds, blue skies and sun. The water is a mirror until winds start to ripple the surface. The rocky shores are becoming more and more exposed as the tide recedes. Waddington Bay is a lovely place this Sunday morning! Exiting the bay is breathtaking, with scenic rocks and islets and low tide. Mountains rise above clouds in the distance. We are slowly making our way toward those mountains on Vancouver Island, expecting to spend only a few more days here in the "Mainland".
Date: June 26, 2016
Time Start: 10 a.m.
Time Finish: 10:50 a.m.
Cruise From: Waddington Bay, Bonwick Island
Cruise To: Seabreeze Cove, Gilford Island
Engine Hours Start: 457
Engine Hours Finish: 458
Weather/sea conditions: Gray skies turning blue, strong N.W. winds, cool, mid 50's
The morning gray evaporates as we have our breakfast, making way for scattered clouds, blue skies and sun. The water is a mirror until winds start to ripple the surface. The rocky shores are becoming more and more exposed as the tide recedes. Waddington Bay is a lovely place this Sunday morning! Exiting the bay is breathtaking, with scenic rocks and islets and low tide. Mountains rise above clouds in the distance. We are slowly making our way toward those mountains on Vancouver Island, expecting to spend only a few more days here in the "Mainland".
We are always on the watch for other boats, rocks, logs, and deadheads. And this morning, we have a bit of fog as a low mist hangs over the water and islands.
It is a quick and beautiful run to Seabreeze Cove next to Gilford Island where we drop our anchor in shallow water. The fog is blowing by us with a chilling breeze. Two other boats are rafted together but soon leave, making us the lone boat here. Scenic rock islets surround us.
We use the Torqeedo on the dinghy to explore the surrounding islets on this sunny but windy day. We are bundled up due to the wind chill. Giant barnacles are encrusted with smaller barnacles! It is a pretty ride through the winding waterways, our cameras are clicking away.
NORTH STAR is our refuge from the wind! Luckily our anchor is holding well. We totally enjoy the beauty of our surroundings as day fades into the golds and then the reds of sunset.
Date: June 27, 2016
Time Start: 6:50 a.m.
Time Finish: 8:25 a.m.
Cruise From: Seabreeze Cove, Gilford Island
Cruise To: Spout Bay and Islets, Hanson Island
Engine Hours Start: 458
Engine Hours Finish: 460
Weather/sea conditions: Foggy and cool morning, cool breeze, a sun break, back to clouds, low 60's
We are starting our fifth week of the cruise today! We leave Seabreeze Cove before the winds pick up, but morning fog surrounds us. Our world is gray with hazy cutout shapes of islands. We're headed to the Spout Islets. Will there be any spouting whales there?
Time Start: 6:50 a.m.
Time Finish: 8:25 a.m.
Cruise From: Seabreeze Cove, Gilford Island
Cruise To: Spout Bay and Islets, Hanson Island
Engine Hours Start: 458
Engine Hours Finish: 460
Weather/sea conditions: Foggy and cool morning, cool breeze, a sun break, back to clouds, low 60's
We are starting our fifth week of the cruise today! We leave Seabreeze Cove before the winds pick up, but morning fog surrounds us. Our world is gray with hazy cutout shapes of islands. We're headed to the Spout Islets. Will there be any spouting whales there?
We are in Blackfish Sound. Whales are known as "blackfish" here in the Mainland, and we are on the lookout for them. The water is calm, and there are no spouts in sight. We tuck into Spout Bay and drop our anchor. One sailboat is also anchored here. The tide is on its way out, revealing fucus and ulva clad rocks along the shorelines.
The sun begins to peek out early in the afternoon, but the wind is chilly. Bundled up to stay warm, we take the dinghy to explore around the bend of the island. Beautiful rocks, beds of kelp, and views into Queen Charlotte Strait with distant islands and mountains await us. We hear whale sounds, the pounding as their large bodies slam against the surface of the water when they breach. Humpbacks are in Blackfish Sound, and we can just make out their splashes in the distance, too far away for photos.
Once around the bend between Spout Islet and Hanson Island, the wind and the water are quite calm, making it a pleasure to drift over the beds of kelp. We have a couple of eagles soaring overhead, and we are totally enjoying our excursion, moving slowly and soaking up this wondrous environment.
Oh, do we love the kelp! How about a few more photos and the video above!
Now the day is stunning, and we head back to our side of the island, continuing to explore in the other direction. Beauty is nonstop here!
We can see the fog line growing in the distance, and, like someone flicked a switch, we are back in clouds. And then, sun again, just like that! And bagpipes! We are serenaded by the gal on the sailboat "Cygnus". She plays for a good hour, the sound resonating off the rocks and across the water, and it is so wonderful. A perfect ending to a lovely afternoon!
Tomorrow we head to Port McNeill, leaving the Broughtons temporarily. We do plan to return before we make our way south. "The Broughtons Part 3" is still to come!
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