Ten Weeks: The Broughtons Part 1
We have arrived! After two weeks of cruising north from our home port in Olympia, we are ready to start exploring an area entirely new to us. The Broughtons is an area of islands and inlets along the mainland of British Columbia and next to Queen Charlotte Strait. Known locally as the Mainland, the Broughtons are full of cruising possibilities, and weeks and even months are not enough time to see everything. We hope to get a taste of this remote and wild area. Part 1 covers visits to Port Harvey, Minstrel Island, Lagoon Cove, anchorage off Kumlah Island, Kwatsi Bay, and Echo Bay. Date: June 12, 2016 Cruise To: Port Harvey Marina, E. Cracoft Island Weather/sea conditions: Cloudy, breezy, chilly, 50's |
We are getting our first taste of the Broughtons at Port Harvey. We immediately become aware of the remoteness and hardships of life here. The marina has suffered a major loss. During a winter storm, the floating buildings that housed the restaurant, store, showers and laundry all sank to the bottom of the bay. Owners George and Gail Cambridge are determined to rebuild and have facilities ready to welcome boaters this summer. A few of their friends have arrived to assist them. It is "all hands on deck", everyone is working hard to recreate Port Harvey. A tent, on loan from the marina at Port McNeil, serves as the social center for now. A goal has been set to have buildings erected and functional in time for Canada Day celebrations on
July 1
July 1
Fortunately, the pizza oven was saved from the sinking restaurant and is still functional. Tonight we share happy hour and pizzas in the tent with the other boaters. And in the morning, fresh cinnamon rolls will be available! There is such a "can do" attitude here!
We learn a lot about Port Harvey! The restaurant had a red shoe hanging outside and was called the Red Shoe Pub and Restaurant. The red shoe has become a symbol for Port Harvey and is prominent on their yacht club burgee. Yes, Port Harvey Yacht Club! And tonight, we become lifetime members. For this year only, to mark the sinking event, the red shoe on the burgee is tilted! There is even more . . . July 1, Canada Day, is a time for all members to gather at Port Harvey and indulge in games such as the red shoe toss, a spin-off from horseshoes. A commodore and vice commodore are chosen and reign from the red and yellow chairs seen in the photos. Sounds like fun! We may have to return for Canada Day.
We get photos of photos of the buildings that sank. What an amazing task it is to try and replace them. Getting supplies in a remote setting like this, getting needed help, dealing with government regulations, etc., so many obstacles! (Secretly, I think they should keep the tent. It has a certain ambiance!)
The boats at Port Harvey tonight, a sample of what is to come when summer really gets rolling!
Date: June 13, 2016
Time Start: 11:30 a.m.
Time Finish: 1:45 p.m.
Cruise From: Port Harvey, E. Cracoft Island
Cruise To: Minstrel Island Government Dock
Engine Hours Start: 432
Engine Hours Finish: 434
Weather/sea conditions: Gray, cool, windy, mid 50's
Rain washed away the salt on NORTH STAR overnight. We have high clouds this morning with a light breeze. As promised, Gail and George have fresh cinnamon rolls for our breakfast. The crew of Port Harvey's friends are hard at it, nailing together walls for a new building and painting railings and benches with welcoming colors. The goal is to be ready for Canada Day festivities, and with all this spirit, it is a real possibility that a new building will be in place by then! (And we learn later that the building is ready by July 1.)
Time Start: 11:30 a.m.
Time Finish: 1:45 p.m.
Cruise From: Port Harvey, E. Cracoft Island
Cruise To: Minstrel Island Government Dock
Engine Hours Start: 432
Engine Hours Finish: 434
Weather/sea conditions: Gray, cool, windy, mid 50's
Rain washed away the salt on NORTH STAR overnight. We have high clouds this morning with a light breeze. As promised, Gail and George have fresh cinnamon rolls for our breakfast. The crew of Port Harvey's friends are hard at it, nailing together walls for a new building and painting railings and benches with welcoming colors. The goal is to be ready for Canada Day festivities, and with all this spirit, it is a real possibility that a new building will be in place by then! (And we learn later that the building is ready by July 1.)
Gail and George are fortunate to have property that has some flat land. They have one of the few "on shore" homes in the Broughtons, most are float homes due to steep slopes, dense forests, and lack of buildable land. They live here part of the year, spending winters in Edmonton where they have a hardware store. They were able to bring a truck to the island that is used for storage of all of the supplies that they need for the rebuilding project. There are only a few logging roads on the island, so the truck doesn't go anywhere!
It is time to leave the Port Harvey crew to their projects. We head into the Havannah Chanel followed by the Chatham Channel . At last we are really CRUISING IN THE BROUGHTONS! Lots of little islets, green shores, hillsides and mountains, hardly any signs of civilization, only a random home or dock, we feel like this is about as remote and wild as one can get - yet surprisingly I am still texting on my I-phone!
Chatham Channel has a narrow entry with range markers to use as guides. Other than having kelp beds, it is like cruising in a river.
We spot the old government dock on Minstrel Island and stop to take a look. It is dilapidated and has definitely seen better days, but we are drawn to its picturesque qualities and decide to stay for a night. The view is spectacular, and there is no moorage to pay. What could be better?
A couple of crab and shrimp boats are here as well as a few sailboats. One sailboat has been purposely grounded alongside the dock for bottom cleaning at low tide.
Eagles seem to like it here, and we do, too! We have time to sort some of our photos, read, act like we are on vacation. Not a bad day at all!
There was once a nice resort here, now it is just the remains of decaying docks and buildings amidst stunning scenery. A ghost town marina!
In spite of the conditions here, both commercial and private boats are on the docks today. It is a busy place.
Date: June 14, 2016
Time Start: 9:45 a.m.
Time Finish: 10:25 a.m.
Cruise From: Government Dock, Minstrel Island
Cruise To: Lagoon Cove, E. Cracoft Island
Engine Hours Start: 434
Engine Hours Finish: 435
Weather/sea conditions: Clouds, light breeze, in morning, cool and windy afternoon
Breakfast is once again thanks to the crew at Port Harvey, bacon and cheese croisants left over from yesterday. Morning brings some light showers here at the government dock. We stretch our legs before leaving, crossing the walkway from the dock that leads to a private home. There are more signs on shore of what once was here.
Time Start: 9:45 a.m.
Time Finish: 10:25 a.m.
Cruise From: Government Dock, Minstrel Island
Cruise To: Lagoon Cove, E. Cracoft Island
Engine Hours Start: 434
Engine Hours Finish: 435
Weather/sea conditions: Clouds, light breeze, in morning, cool and windy afternoon
Breakfast is once again thanks to the crew at Port Harvey, bacon and cheese croisants left over from yesterday. Morning brings some light showers here at the government dock. We stretch our legs before leaving, crossing the walkway from the dock that leads to a private home. There are more signs on shore of what once was here.
Farewell to the ghost dock, it definitely has character! We head through the passage called the Blow Hole to Lagoon Cove on E. Cracroft Island. It is a short and beautiful run. We are able to get fuel at Lagoon Cove and arrange to spend the night in another scenic spot.
Jam (short for Jamilla) helps with our lines on the guest dock. She and Dave are spending the summer assisting the owner of the marina. Jam lives in Vancouver after immigrating from the Philippines and is living aboard a sailboat with Dave while here. She is a delightful person to get to know.
Our views of the cove are wonderful! We have arrived just in time to help peel the heads off of prawns for tonight's happy hour. Happy hours in these Broughton marinas are legendary, each marina seeming to have a signature for their event. Here at Lagoon Cove, prawns are the signature feature. Lucky us!
Our views of the cove are wonderful! We have arrived just in time to help peel the heads off of prawns for tonight's happy hour. Happy hours in these Broughton marinas are legendary, each marina seeming to have a signature for their event. Here at Lagoon Cove, prawns are the signature feature. Lucky us!
We take a self guided tour of the grounds. The owner has a beautiful estate-like homesite looking down on the cove. There are rose trellises and gardens, expanses of lawn, fruit trees, so many inviting and interesting nooks and crannies to discover. The swing in the forest is a must see, as is the workshop with its collections of tools and everything needed to maintain the marina.
The marina itself is on floats, even the washrooms and showers. The marina is for sale for a cool $1.2 million, just a little pocket change! The current owner is now a widow and in her 80's. So, the future of Lagoon Cove is uncertain. Hopefully just the right buyer will come along to keep this boating mecca operational.
Happy Hour arrives! Prawn time, and time to socialize with the other boaters. We are indoors as it is a windy and cool evening. Gillian and Dave from the sailboat Carousel are here, they are docked beside us. So are Jam and Dave and Jerry and Tanya, our wonderful marina hosts. Dan meets a Canadian fisheries biologist who is using an ROV to do studies on salmon farms. They end up spending time together comparing notes and sharing tips.
Happy Hour arrives! Prawn time, and time to socialize with the other boaters. We are indoors as it is a windy and cool evening. Gillian and Dave from the sailboat Carousel are here, they are docked beside us. So are Jam and Dave and Jerry and Tanya, our wonderful marina hosts. Dan meets a Canadian fisheries biologist who is using an ROV to do studies on salmon farms. They end up spending time together comparing notes and sharing tips.
The sun sets right off our bow tonight, with raindrops falling at the same time! Daylight lingers until after 10 p.m. now, the hours of darkness are short!
Date: June 15, 2016
Time Start: 12:35 p.m.
Time Finish: 3:00 p.m.
Cruise From: Lagoon Cove
Cruise To: Kumlah and Gilford Islands, Tribune Channel
Engine Hours Start: 435
Engine Hours Finish: 437
Weather/sea conditions: Calm, beautiful morning, warmer, mid 60's, showers late with rainbow
We move slowly this morning, totally enjoying the setting and people at Lagoon Cove. The prawn catch for today is brought to shore along with a crab, a sole, and a sculpin. The sculpin has a shrimp in its mouth! The heads of the prawns are removed before they are boiled and made ready for tonight's happy hour. The heads get tossed into the water, attracting schools of perch. (Click on photos to get full effect, some are verticals.)
Time Start: 12:35 p.m.
Time Finish: 3:00 p.m.
Cruise From: Lagoon Cove
Cruise To: Kumlah and Gilford Islands, Tribune Channel
Engine Hours Start: 435
Engine Hours Finish: 437
Weather/sea conditions: Calm, beautiful morning, warmer, mid 60's, showers late with rainbow
We move slowly this morning, totally enjoying the setting and people at Lagoon Cove. The prawn catch for today is brought to shore along with a crab, a sole, and a sculpin. The sculpin has a shrimp in its mouth! The heads of the prawns are removed before they are boiled and made ready for tonight's happy hour. The heads get tossed into the water, attracting schools of perch. (Click on photos to get full effect, some are verticals.)
The marina has great facilities on the dock for cleaning fish, cooking prawns and crab, etc.
Dan brings out his underwater ROV for a demonstration. People are wanting to see it after the discussions at happy hour last night. Of course, with an audience it gets stuck on a rock. Luckily, Dave hops in a skiff and rescues it. The ROV is controlled from the laptop computer keyboard, has a long tether on it, and photos can be taken. What it is looking at shows up on the computer screen. High tech stuff! This one is from a kit that Dan put together over the winter months.
We are moving on today, as are Gillian and Dave on Carousel. Jerry and Tanya (our prawn providers!) and Jam and Dave have been great hosts here.
Just around the bend from Lagoon Cove, we see what we at first think is a seal swimming to the shore of Minstrel Island. No, is it a dog? No again! We are stunned, realizing that it is a bear! We watch as it quickly disappears behind the trees on shore, not visible enough to get a photo, but very visible in our memories!
We swing past the government dock on Minstrel, and are awe struck by the beauty we are seeing today. We are in Knight Inlet, a very long arm of water reaching into the mainland of British Columbia, and it is just breathtaking. It is a watercolor world!
We swing past the government dock on Minstrel, and are awe struck by the beauty we are seeing today. We are in Knight Inlet, a very long arm of water reaching into the mainland of British Columbia, and it is just breathtaking. It is a watercolor world!
We go just a short distance in Knight Inlet and then turn into Sargeaunt Passage. The passage is narrow with high forested cliffs, and it takes us into Tribune Channel.
A small island called Kumlah sits in Tribune Channel just off of Gilford Island. Between Kumlah and Gilford is a shallow spot where an anchor can be dropped (according to our Dreamspeaker Guidebook), and we use our Garmin to locate it. At 30 feet depth, we drop the anchor. We are in the heart of a lovely circle of mountains, unbelievable! What a dream anchorage!
Dan goes for a row along the shore of Gilford Island, taking a few photos. We spend late afternoon and evening surrounded by pure beauty. A rain cloud drops part of its load on us even though the sun stays out. Raindrops bounce on the surface of the water and we hear the sound of them hitting our roof.
A rainbow arches over the mountains. We are alone here, but not a bit lonely. It is lovely.
Date: June 16, 2016
Time Start: 10 a.m.
Time Finish: 1:30 p.m.
Cruise From: Kumlah Island, Tribune Channel
Cruise To: Kwatsi Bay
Engine Hours Start: 437
Engine Hours Finish: 440
Weather/sea conditions: Calm, cloudy morning, then winds, showers and cooler. Rain at Kwatsi Bay.
"Oh, what a beautiful morning!" You could easily sing that this morning here in our Kumlah Island anchorage. We didn't dream these mountains, they are still just as beautiful as yesterday, the scenery constantly changing as billowing clouds pass by, the mountain tops disappearing and reappearing in a game of peekaboo.
Time Start: 10 a.m.
Time Finish: 1:30 p.m.
Cruise From: Kumlah Island, Tribune Channel
Cruise To: Kwatsi Bay
Engine Hours Start: 437
Engine Hours Finish: 440
Weather/sea conditions: Calm, cloudy morning, then winds, showers and cooler. Rain at Kwatsi Bay.
"Oh, what a beautiful morning!" You could easily sing that this morning here in our Kumlah Island anchorage. We didn't dream these mountains, they are still just as beautiful as yesterday, the scenery constantly changing as billowing clouds pass by, the mountain tops disappearing and reappearing in a game of peekaboo.
Well, it seems that the gods of Kumlah don't want us to leave. Our anchor rode is definitely stuck on something. The anchor is set at about 35 feet depth, and some 125 feet of rode is still out there, along with 50 feet of chain. We have only managed to pull in about 25 feet of rode. We try everything we can to get the anchor up. Dan has a gadget, a weight that drops down a line and attaches to the anchor, but since it is the rode that is tangled, that won't work. We try different maneuvering angles with the boat. No luck.
A couple of hours later, the sacrifice is made. At 11:45 a.m., with a clap of thunder, raindrops falling from gray skies, the rode is cut. Farewell to anchor, chain, and a good chunk of rode! Thankfully we have a spare anchor aboard, but a trip to Port McNeil to replace this loss is now on our agenda.
A couple of hours later, the sacrifice is made. At 11:45 a.m., with a clap of thunder, raindrops falling from gray skies, the rode is cut. Farewell to anchor, chain, and a good chunk of rode! Thankfully we have a spare anchor aboard, but a trip to Port McNeil to replace this loss is now on our agenda.
Boat captains need to have all kinds of talents! Thank goodness for Dan, he gets right to work installing the spare anchor. The spare gets prepped and the "bitter end" attached in the anchor well.
Farewell to Kumlah! We are continuing in Tribune Channel on our way to Kwatsi Bay, and we spot several porpoises. Such fun! Steep rock faces and forests line the shores. Bald eagles greet us. And then waterfalls all along the way. The entrance to Kwatsi is stunning.
Max, the owner of Kwatsi Bay, greets us at the dock. Dan works some more on setting up the spare anchor. More boats arrive in the afternoon, eight in total by happy hour time. Five o'clock is the time to gather and socialize here.
Rain falls and it is cool. Everyone disappears into the warmth of their boats after happy hour.
Date: June 17, 2016
Kwatsi Bay
Weather/sea conditions: Calm and lovely morning, warming to mid 60's, a sunny day!
We wake up to a beautiful and calm morning. June and Wayne Scown on "Scowndrel's Dream" are in their cockpit cooking up crabs they have caught. Jeff and Darlene on "Mauna Kai" are off in their kayak to hike to the nearby waterfall. Max has provided them with an airhorn, an essential item to carry as this is bear country. Max is holding fort in the gift shop/office. We have some boat chores to tend to, with focus on installation of our temporary anchor. Dock visits fill our time, too.
Date: June 17, 2016
Kwatsi Bay
Weather/sea conditions: Calm and lovely morning, warming to mid 60's, a sunny day!
We wake up to a beautiful and calm morning. June and Wayne Scown on "Scowndrel's Dream" are in their cockpit cooking up crabs they have caught. Jeff and Darlene on "Mauna Kai" are off in their kayak to hike to the nearby waterfall. Max has provided them with an airhorn, an essential item to carry as this is bear country. Max is holding fort in the gift shop/office. We have some boat chores to tend to, with focus on installation of our temporary anchor. Dock visits fill our time, too.
Anchor installation leads to cleaning of the anchor locker and discovering that the drain is plugged. Finally, the spare is fully attached at the bitter end and we are set for our next anchorage.
Now it is our turn to visit the waterfall. We go sans airhorn, with just our chatter to keep any bears away. The forest has a carpeting of lush green deer ferns. The new fronds are unfurling, and the overhead hemlock trees sport their fresh spring growth. Not a bear to be seen! (Click on photos for full effect of verticals!)
Now it is our turn to visit the waterfall. We go sans airhorn, with just our chatter to keep any bears away. The forest has a carpeting of lush green deer ferns. The new fronds are unfurling, and the overhead hemlock trees sport their fresh spring growth. Not a bear to be seen! (Click on photos for full effect of verticals!)
A dinghy tour of Kwatsi Bay is truly a visual experience as we go in close to the shorelines and against the steeply rising rock faces. The marina itself looks so small in this place of grandeur. Why so many photos? Well, it is stunning! Be sure to click for the vertical photos!
Dinner is potluck on the Kwatsi Bay dock, just nine of us tonight, but very pleasant. Max is a wealth of information after spending much of his life here, a terrific host. We learn much about this part of the "Mainland" from him. A social evening is a great way to end the day.
Date: June 18, 2016
Time Start: 11:35 a.m.
Time Finish: 2:55 p.m.
Cruise From: Kwatsi Bay
Cruise to: Echo Bay, Gilford Island
Engine Hours Start: 440
Engine Hours Finish: 442
Weather/sea conditions: Partly cloudy, low 60's with breeze
We say goodbye to the crew of Alliance, a 65 foot cruiser based in Anacortes. The owners have guests fly in and meet them for different legs of their cruise. This week's guests are a sister and husband from Michigan. Fun people! We enjoy the variety of boaters we meet along the way and hearing their stories. Morning quickly passes as we also spend time chatting with Max before we, too, leave Kwatsi Bay.
Time Start: 11:35 a.m.
Time Finish: 2:55 p.m.
Cruise From: Kwatsi Bay
Cruise to: Echo Bay, Gilford Island
Engine Hours Start: 440
Engine Hours Finish: 442
Weather/sea conditions: Partly cloudy, low 60's with breeze
We say goodbye to the crew of Alliance, a 65 foot cruiser based in Anacortes. The owners have guests fly in and meet them for different legs of their cruise. This week's guests are a sister and husband from Michigan. Fun people! We enjoy the variety of boaters we meet along the way and hearing their stories. Morning quickly passes as we also spend time chatting with Max before we, too, leave Kwatsi Bay.
Once again we are in Tribune Channel. We go along the shore to check out Lacey Falls, and it is about dry today. It takes rain to make the falls beautiful, and we have had some dry days. We will have to see the falls in our imaginations, and in the photos others have taken. Even without water, the rocks and scenery are amazing! A fish farm is nearby.
We make our way into Echo Bay. Pierre, the owner, and his poodle "Echo" greet us on the dock. Echo Bay is a floating resort with some lodging, laundry, washrooms, store and restaurant. We are too early in the season for the traditional (and famous!) pig roast. The restaurant is not serving meals yet, and the store hasn't been stocked for the summer season. We do manage to purchase a loaf of frozen bread and a carton of soy milk. We are early visitors in this part of the world!
We get some neighbors on our dock, Dave and Sally Lang from Toronto on their sailboat "Yonder". "Scowndrel's Dream" with June and Wayne is also here. And then the Seasport "Simplicity" pulls in with Rich and Nancy from Canby, Oregon. In chatting with them, we discover that he is the brother of my Ranger Tug "Dauntless" friend Mary! They have just spent a week going all the way from Bellingham to Prince Rupert and then back here to the Broughtons, an amazingly fast way of cruising. We chat more with June and Wayne (from Vancouver), then spend happy hour aboard "Yonder" with David and Sally.
And now it is time for sunset at Echo Bay!
Date: June 19, 2016
Echo Bay, Gilford Island
Weather/sea conditions: Gray morning, clearing to sun and warmer, upper 60's with breeze
HAPPY FATHER'S DAY! We are staying over at Echo Bay. It is time to do some laundry ($5 a load to wash, $5 a load to dry) and to clean the algae off of the hull of NORTH STAR. A few marina photos get taken, too.
Echo Bay, Gilford Island
Weather/sea conditions: Gray morning, clearing to sun and warmer, upper 60's with breeze
HAPPY FATHER'S DAY! We are staying over at Echo Bay. It is time to do some laundry ($5 a load to wash, $5 a load to dry) and to clean the algae off of the hull of NORTH STAR. A few marina photos get taken, too.
Chores are completed! It is time to treat the hard working Dad to something he will enjoy! A short dinghy ride takes us to Billy Proctor's place. Billy is the living history of the "Mainland". He has written several books to tell his life story and the story of the changes that have occurred in this part of the world during his lifetime. His focus is on fishing and logging and how changes in those industries have affected the people who live and work here. He has become a crusader for protection of the environment through what his eyes have witnessed.
We not only meet Billy, who sits on the porch to greet and chat with visitors, but also tour his museum, a collection of a variety of things he has collected over his 82 years. He has everything from old bottles to native artifacts to old typewriters to seashells. And it all tells a story!
We not only meet Billy, who sits on the porch to greet and chat with visitors, but also tour his museum, a collection of a variety of things he has collected over his 82 years. He has everything from old bottles to native artifacts to old typewriters to seashells. And it all tells a story!
A multi-talented and skilled man, Billy built his museum. He also has built a replica of the Echo Bay School and a replica of a loggers cabin. The cabin is made entirely out of one cedar log! Yet another building houses a bookshop/gift shop. Visiting Billy is a fascinating stop for anyone cruising in this area.
Billy's house is next door, and his fishing boat, "Ocean Dawn", is still on the dock. We make our way back to our dinghy, with new books to read, more knowledge in our heads, and lots to think about.
We have one more stop for Father's Day. Not far from Billy Proctor's is the Salmon Coast Field Station. We get a full tour of the facilities and updated on current research projects. An energetic group of students are on site and eager to share with us, as is the director of the facility. They have wonderful facilities for the students, and it is obvious that everyone works hard here.
Returning to Echo Bay, we visit the sailboat "Joshua". It is a wooden replica of the Joshua Slocumb boat "Spray" that circumnavigated the world in the early 1900's. The owner has a set of drums in the stern and obliges us with a bit of rhythm. Back on NORTH STAR, June and Wayne join us for happy hour and lots of story sharing. They have been spending summers in the Broughtons for many years and have a wealth of information and experiences.
Sunset doesn't disappoint! And, the seagulls leave a treasure on the dock, a half opened sea urchin.
Tomorrow we will head off for more adventures in the Broughtons! Stay tuned!
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